My Evolved Opinion on Outfit Formulas
No styling client is the same: some want a very rigid formula, others want suggestions. We're doing both today.
I used to dismiss the concept of "formulas." I felt like they took all the fun out of style. But I've since realized that a formula is what makes style. Whether this formula comes naturally and has been well-practiced or needs to be more organized and laid out, we're all using a formula of some kind.
For my sister's birthday this year, I gifted her a styling appointment + packet + my mom and I bought her a few items from the packet together. When I have an appointment with a client, I see what they own, and we make outfits together based on their existing wardrobe. We style their pieces together, adding elements and styling tricks to make the outfits special. After an appointment, I send my client a shopping packet with items I think would be worth investing in to round out their wardrobe, with little "Paper Dolls" at the bottom that illustrate suggested outfits combining elements they already have and some of the new pieces I am proposing.
My sister is a brilliant writer, a talented editor, and the most intelligent human I know. She possesses wisdom and skills that are far beyond my ability or comprehension. She likes clothing but has always preferred a pretty rigid formula for getting dressed. I’ve had plenty of clients that feel the same way.
Different clients prefer different kinds of outfit formulas, and some like their formulas to be more precise than others.
Some want a more flexible formula that includes category suggestions and styling tips:
The above outfits are founded on the Five-Parts Method. While I send specific links to items (and multiple links per category), you can adapt and morph the looks.
Outfit 1 consists of a waistcoat as a top, an A-line skirt, a chain belt, a silk neck scarf, and a tall boot (see here, here, and here). It's key that the skirt's hem overlaps with the top of the boot!).
Outfit 2 consists of a classic striped tee, a stylized jacket, like this fringed one I love (belted with a classic belt), a statement neck accessory (I like pearls with the western jacket), and strappy, dainty sandals coming out from the hem of some kick flares.
Outfit 3 consists of a graphic tee (a striped tee works here too, but I love a graphic tee for extra personalization), a structured mini skirt, a menswear-style blazer (with a hem that hits near where the skirt’s does. I like to size up in blazers if I want them a little oversized), and dainty/light shoes.
Outfit 4 leans into the Contradistinction Technique, using a boxy, even sporty top like a rugby, baggy dark wash no-stretch jeans, and feminine touches like a chain belt and slingback kitten heels.
Others prefer Outfit Maps.
While doing this exercise, I realized I needed a real prompt to make a convincing “Outfit Map!” So this one is straight from my sister’s packet with a couple of revisions to make it more universal.
I call these Outfit Maps because they map out outfits with specific items in mind. Just because you crave some outfit “maps” doesn’t mean you don’t “get” style. Some people get overwhelmed when it comes to dressing their own bodies. I’ve been there, too! So I create these maps that intricately lay out an outfit. There should be a try-on element to this process. It can take several iterations before we get the “map” right.
Polo: Zara ribbed knit polo I sent my sister because I think it will be a really good alternative to a tee shirt. And I love a polo. I also like this one a lot, and this striped one is fun, and then this out-of-budget option.
Jackets: Everlane linen blazer, 7 For All Mankind faux leather belted jacket (my sister already owns this)
Jeans: Reformation mid-wash jeans (I like the shades “Lanier” and “Colorado”), COS dark-wash jeans (this style jean is called “raw” or “selvedge”)
Belts: L.L.Bean brown braided belt (men’s!), J.Crew black belt
Shoes: Ann Mashburn fisherman sandals, Margaux red ballet flats, and Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 sneakers are on the left. On the right are Bloch ballet flats (I think I slip these in every week lol), Marc Fisher kitten heel slingbacks, and Adidas Handball Spezial sneakers
Accessories: Whitney Museum baseball cap (here’s one from The Getty Museum!), Chimi sunglasses, Pearl Source pearl necklace
Some need to find order and purpose in their collection of gems.
Other clients have Pinterest boards with outfit inspiration and spend time online shopping and considering their wardrobes. And when you accumulate a ton of great things (and some mistakes), it can be really overwhelming! They have great pieces but usually lack the staples in their closet — the perfect trousers, a great pair of jeans, a tailored shirt — to anchor their ruffled collars or mini skirts. They use my services as a check-in to get them on track.
Outfit 1 shows the jeans styled with *that* jacket you love but don’t know how to wear (this one’s 70% off if interested), a striped tank top (I love the piping and cut of this tank so much, I got it myself), but a striped button-down shirt tucked in would work too. A long statement necklace, T-strap black shoes (linked here, here, and here) to anchor the outfit, and classic sunglasses to balance it.
Outfit 2 shows the jeans styled with a fun top (maybe something you have from an event that you want to figure out how to wear casually) and a neck scarf, but a necklace would work too! Some earth-tone strappy sandals to balance the preciousness of the top/scarf. I added some cool statement sunglasses, too.
Outfit 3 shows a belted shirt (on sale) styled with a graphic vintage tee (something almost every single client owns but often only wears to bed) tucked into the jeans with a brown belt. Add white flat shoes that the jeans seamlessly flow into (these AGS jellies are so cool and launching May 20th!). I added a dainty pearl necklace to contrast the tee and jacket.
I should also note that these paper dolls can't illustrate how clothing will look when it's on your body. Brands often have different size guides, and clothing and style are more complex than copy-paste. I touched on this when discussing Outfit Maps, but for those who require a more rigid formula, I like to make follow-up appointments or even in-person shopping appointments to try and fit items together.
When you can identify with a Silhouette (see Palm, Evergreen, and Cypress), much of this becomes easier. While I call it the Silhouette System™, it is a formula. Like all of my approaches to getting dressed, everything is flexible. A formula is helpful, but there are NO RULES! And I can confirm they don’t take away all the fun. They actually make getting dressed a whole lot less overwhelming and more enjoyable.
Think about what type of formula you prefer! If you have any questions, comment below or message me. It’s my favorite thing to discuss :)
xo
Eliz