NYFW: The Most Interesting to Look At
Fashion Month kicked off last week, and the shows that are the most "interesting to look at" are all doing two things.
I’m not doing day-to-day Fashion Week coverage myself, but if you’re interested in it, my favorite takeaways, opinions, and recaps are c/o The Love List by Jess Graves, Consider Yourself Cultured by Jalil Johnson, and Magasin by Laura Reilly, founders of some of my favorite Substacks for fashion/market news. I also like Lauren Sherman’s Fashion People podcast (very insidery) and eagerly await her next episode to hear her thoughts on Fashion Month thus far.
Below, I talk about styling and Silhouette variety on the runway and how that pertains to our everyday dressing.
I have been monitoring the runway shows and talking to friends at events and presentations this week. What makes a show good will always be subjective, but many people who work in fashion—at least the generation I’m part of (in our 30s)—have similar opinions on the shows. Not surprisingly, many of these folks have worked with or at least adjacent to one another for years. At fashion events and in real life, I have noticed a generational style of dress among people “in fashion.” (This is a generalization and does not apply to everyone, of course.) Many of those who have worked in the industry for 10+ years tend to dress more minimally and without fuss, focusing on tailoring and finishes. They carefully style their own looks, cuffing a sleeve and layering beautifully. I imagine this is partly “The Row Effect,” where beautiful luxury garments allow for a less-is-more style. This phenomenon is fascinating to witness both from the attendees and in the shows themselves.
But if shock value isn’t as high now as it was in street style and on the runways in the 2010s, how does a brand keep a runway show exciting? What are people doing to make their daily outfits look different enough for an entire week (the length of NYFW)?
This answer has two parts, and I frequently discuss both points on The Corner Booth. One part is deliberate styling: for example, a woven brown leather belt instead of a sleek black one, a boot instead of a flat shoe, or a polo instead of a tee layered under a sweater. Give it thought and form an opinion about what is more compelling to you! I also know your outfit looks better when you feel confident in the way you put it together, choosing accessories and layering elements. The people with the best outfits are usually those who dress with a great amount of thought and care daily. And so, while they may be simply wearing a shirt with trousers, how they play with the styling of the outfit is what makes it very interesting.
This also relates to the runway. The best shows are the ones with more thoughtful styling. Yes, a gorgeous dress as the closing look of a show will get people on their feet, but the most exciting and inspiring shows are well-styled with deliberate layering, wrinkles, tucks, and cuffs. (It makes you want to go home and layer two or more collared tops immediately!)
I am pleased to say the second part is the variety in their choice of Silhouette. Shows that are interesting to watch from start to finish—usually 10-20 minutes—often have a good balance of all three Silhouettes in the Silhouette System™. With this balance, everyone can see themselves in a look. That doesn't necessarily mean you see yourself wearing it, but that you feel more connected to the collection because of the Silhouette you relate to. As someone who identifies most with the Palm Silhouette, while I love a great suit or full skirt on the runway, a pair of mini shorts and a blazer will always get my heart racing that much more.
Below are a few collections from New York that illustrate the great Silhouette variety, starting with my favorites thus far: Alaïa and Khaite.
Alaïa
Khaite
Ralph Lauren
Brandon Maxwell
Tibi
Monse
You can take this into your own day-to-day life, too. Sometimes, getting dressed can get boring, especially towards the end of a drawn-out season. I hear this from so many of my styling clients. They think they are tired of their wardrobe, but they just need to be more adventurous with their Silhouettes. Think of your week like a fashion show. Seven consecutive Cypress looks won't be as exciting as sprinkling an Evergreen or Palm here or there. There is a reason why many shows end with that aforementioned full skirt. It's a dramatic look meant to keep the audience excited.
Have fun making your own show of sorts.
xo
Eliz